In Flanders Fields Part 2

In Flanders Fields Part 2

The World wasn’t made in a day.
And Eve didn’t ride on a bus.
But most of the world’s in a sandbag;
The rest of it’s plastered on us.

– Anonymous, The Wipers Times, 1916

On to Part 2, because one post wasn’t enough to show and talk about everything! Not only was our lunch stop a bio break and some food, it was also a chance for some fresh air as due to technical difficulties, the air conditioning in the bus was non-functioning, and it just so happened to be 25 degrees and sunny as can be (I went in the fall to escape summer temps for a reason!). Thank goodness today wasn’t a day where I was wanting to take any photos of me, as the heat was starting to get to me!

In more seriousness, our lunch stop is a really amazing museum that is only open to select touring companies, Quasimodo Tours included. I’m really happy I chose Quasimodo Tours for many reasons, but the inclusion of this museum was the cherry on top of the sundae (which I could have used to cool me down!). The museum had lots of things that have been donated by the locals, from either during the war, or after as each area began the slow rebuilding after being decimated by the war.

As part of the stop, and the museum, they have re-created two different bunkers for us to walk through, and both of these bunkers look out over where No Man’s Land was. The most easily spotted difference between both is the materials used to build the trench walls. The Germans used small sticks of wood, whereas the British trenches used metal. The walkways they built in the trenches, whilst both made of wood varied in how they were laid. I can’t imagine having to stay in these trenches for days and days on end, especially knowing how sodden the conditions really got with the weather as well. It’s remarkable how they all survived and has such a camaraderie despite the deplorable living conditions they faced each day.

What peering out of the bunker would look like – minus the beautiful grass of course

We also had the opportunity to stop at Polygon Wood. This was a strategic location in 1917 when, during the Third Battle of Ypres, the British, and ultimately ANZAC forces took over the German occupation on the road to Passendale. On the South side of the road is the original Polygon Wood Cemetery. You always know when you are in a war time cemetery, as the graves are not neatly placed rows, and bodies are buried in multiple directions and locations. There’s only 108 burials here with a little over half of those soldiers being from New Zealand.

Polygon Wood, an original wartime cemetery

Across the road to the North is the Buttes New British Cemetery. The cemetery has just over 2,100 soldiers buried here, many unknown, and many of them dying due to the conditions in the trenches in this area.

Located in this wooded area is the Butte, a large hill and strategic battleground which was successfully captured by the Australian 5th Division along with British allied forces.

At the top of the mound, or Butte, is the memorial to the Australian 5th Division which as you can see gives a large view of the cemetery below. The building that is slightly under construction in my photos is actually a memorial to New Zealand and those lost during this battle. Anyone who knows me knows that I am very fond of New Zealand after my time there so it was nice to see the tributes to the ANZAC soldiers as well.

It was also interesting to see and feel that this is where the battles happened and while the mound isn’t an actual building, I can’t imagine what trying to climb that, along with going through all the trenches that were in the area was like with the heavy artillery that was flying during the battle. To see something so small and unimposing (it looks like a good solid toboggan hill here in Canada) and know that so many lives were lost defending and trying to secure it is tragic and sad.

A view from the butte of the Cemetery and the NZ Memorial

Hill 60 is one of the best preserved battlefield locations, as it was purchased by a British family who wanted it left untouched so it remained in its wartime state.

Hill 60 is an important location from the war, as not a lot of people know and understand that tunneling was a large part of the war. With Hill 60, it passed between German and allied occupations many times over, and some of the most successful allied attacks came as a result of tunnels being built under the hill. Many Germans and British soldiers are buried in the rubble of the tunnels under the hills, and so not only is it a memorial site, but it is the final graves of many soldiers as they fell in battle. It is also the site of a well preserved original German bunker.

It was quite moving walking through the land that nature has reclaimed for itself, trying to picture it as a barren wasteland, riddled with bodies and destruction. It seems so peaceful now as you walk among the trees and grass, yet beneath my feet are the final resting places of many, likely unknown, soldiers.

Perhaps the most mind-numbing (not sure what word to use here) thing I saw during the tour of Hill 60 (and possibly the entire trip) was the monument to the miners who lost their lives. The monument was erected in 1923 (it replaced the one that was built by the fallen comrades in 1919). In this photo you can see some flowers that have been placed ‘in’ the monument. Whatever are they placed “in” it for you ask? Well, they are placed inside of bullet holes. Holes that were made during the fighting in World War II. Yup, you read that right. This area, and Hill 60, was also involved in WWII fighting and the memorial to honour the fallen of WWI, or at the time what was to have been “The Great War” was shot by soldiers fighting in WWII.



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